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1

“...Caldeiras da Ribeira Grande and Lombadas, a three-hours’ drive to a valley containing thermal springs and a small bathing establishment. Thence a good path for donkey riding winds through pic- turesque scenery to Lombadas. (3) To Lake Fogo, which can be reached on foot from the carriage road by those making the circular drive to Villa Franca and Ribeira Grande. Excursions are also recommended (when time permits) to Sete Cidades. Passengers drive by a pleasant route which occupies two hours to Lomba la Cruz, whence a bridle path leads in three-quarters of an hour...”
2

“...MORE GENERAL INFORMATION 29 Progress.” By Algernon Aspinall. London: Sir Isaac Pit- man and Sons, 19x2. . . „ " West Indian Tales of Old.” By Algernon Aspinall. London : Duckworth and Co., 1912. " West Indies and Guiana.” Six lectures written for the Visual Instruction Committee of the Colonial Office. By Algernon Aspinall. London, 1914. '* Islands.” By Sir Arthur E. Shipley, G.B.E., F.R.S. London: Martin Hopkinson and Co., 1924. “ The Handbook of the British West Indies, British Guiana and British Honduras.” By Algernon Aspinall, C.M.G., C.B.E. London : The West India Committee. " The Colonial Office List.” London: Waterlow and Son, Ltd. „ •• Report by the Hon. E. F. L. Wood, M.P. (Parliamentary Under-Secretary of State for the Colonies), on his visit to the West Indies and British Guiana, 1921-22 ” [Cmd. 1679] H.M. Stationery Office. Bahamas “ Sketches of Summerland.” By G. J. H. Northcroft, 1912. ■* The Land of the Pink Pearl.” By L. D. Powles, 1888. " A History of the Bahamas House...”
3

“...MORE GENERAL INFORMATION 39 ! large influx of Royalists at the time of the Common- | wealth. Many English gentlemen, Royalist officers and ■ divines, were sent out to the island and sold as slaves, I and it is on record that a number changed hands at a ■ price of 1,500 lb. of sugar per man ! Their descendants, . known as “ mean whites ” and “ red legs,” are still : found there. At the close of the American Revolution i many loyalists emigrated from America to the West I Indies with their slaves. Jamaica and the Bahamas 1 were particularly favoured, and it is estimated that the \ latter islands gained from 6,000 and 7,000 new inhabi- I tants between June, 1783, and April, 1785, from this I source. Even the ubiquitous Teuton is not omitted jfrom the fist of those who have helped to populate \ the islands, for in 1840 Mr. King imported twenty-nine ‘Germans into St. Lucia. Syrians are also found in , Jamaica and several other islands. They go out at j their own expense and become pedlars, many...”
4

“...Shark’s Hole, another interesting cave over which the road ■èse^s, and proceeding farther one comes to the famous ■valsingham Caves, which well repay a visit. It was itWalsingham that Ireland’s poet, Tom Moore, resided Pr a few months when he was Registrar of the Vice- ■dmiralty Court. A fascimile of his house was erected K Wembley to accommodate the Bermuda exhibits at the British Empire Exhibition of 1924 and 1925. Tom lloore did not remain long in the islands, but delegated Ks duties to another man. The poet’s calabash tree is also pointed out to visitors. Near the house are the ieamington Caves, and a little farther on the Crystal Paves, perhaps the finest in the island. In the same Neighbourhood there are also the scarcely less famous...”
5

“... 1J hours by carriage from Bridgetown) stands at a short distance from the edge of a cliff 824 feet high, which com- mands an extensive view of the coral-fringed Windward Coast. In the churchyard is pointed out the tomb of Ferdinando Paleologus, descendant of the last Greek Christian Emperors of that name, who were driven from Constantinople by the Turks. He was the son of Theo- dora Paleologus (who was buried at Llandulph in Corn- wall) by his wife, Mary Balls, and he was successively vestry-man, sidesman, churchwarden, and trustee of St. John’s Church in the seventeenth century. The tradi- tion of the death and burial of a Greek prince in Cornwall was for many years current in Barbados ; and when the Church of St. John was destroyed by the hurricane of 1831, the coffin of Ferdinando Paleologus was discovered in the vault of Sir Peter Colleton under the organ loft....”
6

“...POCKET GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES surmounted with battlements. The walls are immensely j thick, and well calculated to withstand hurricanes. In 1831 the outside of the house was being repaired when it was struck by the terrific cyclone of August nth, and i though the scaffolding was carried off by force of the wind and deposited in the mill-yard of the Three Houses Estate, three miles away, the building was uninjured. The chief features of the interior are the handsome j ceilings in plaster-work. A man named Warren was brought out to do the work in the old slavery days as a militiaman, when the planters were bound by law to leaven their holding of blacks with a certain number of white men. But though he is generally credited with it he really did very little, the bulk being done by one Charles Rutter, whose son was recently employed to repair the ceilings. The work took Rutter and Randals, \ who was also brought out, three and a half years to! complete. At the end of the long drawing-room and;...”
7

“...50 mins., Monos 1 hour 30 mins., Gasparee 1 hour 10 mins., and Chacachacare 2 hours 10 mins. Full particulars regarding times of sailing, etc., can be obtained at the Railway Station. Motor-launches and boats can be hired at reasonable rates. Communication with Tobago is maintained by the Govern- ment s.s. Belize, a miniature liner whose itinerary will be found on page 144. . To those wishing to see the Orinoco River, opportunity is afforded by the comfortable river boats of the Compania Anonima di Navegafion fluvial y Costanesa de Venezuela, which proceed every week to Ciudad Bolivar, whence smaller boats convey such passengers as may desire to proceed farther, to the upper reaches of the river. . 'v. SPORTS. Lawn tennis is played on the courts of the Tranquillity Club (near the Queen’s Park Hotel), and the St. Clair Club, whose members are always glad to extend hospitality to visitors suitably introduced. At the St. Clair Club bridge and dancing can also be enjoyed. Cricket is popular....”
8

“...(population 773), the capital of Tobago, formerly called Fort Louis, is situated at the south of the island, about eight miles from the south- west point. The only other town is Plymouth, really only a village (population 763), on the north side, five miles from Scarborough. The principal villages are Roxburgh in the Windward district and Moriah in the northern. Around the coast there are many excellent bays, most of which are well sheltered and afford safe anchorage with deep soundings. Indeed, Man-o’-War Bay, a very spacious harbour, is said to be capable of affording shelter to the whple of the British fleet! What is most wanted for Tobago is the introduction of capital and labour ; given that, there should be no reason why this beautiful island should not regain a large portion at least of its former prosperity. A hopeful feature is the number of new settlers from the mother country who have acquired plantations in different parts of the island. Grenadians, too, after selling their cocoa...”
9

“...152 POCKET GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES once the home of an old hermit named Mitchell, who was marooned upon it. The descendants of the fowls which he kept are still to be found in the island in their wild state. The scenery on the north side of the island is very imposing. Man-o’-War Bay, on the shore of which is the village of Charlotteville, nestling at the foot of the hills, should be visited. A minor inlet bears the suggestive name of Pirate’s Bay. From Charlotteville a bridle track runs west to Castara, which is linked by driving roads to Plymouth and Scarborough. Writing of Tobago in 1683, Captain John Poyntz said: Thou art here presented with The Present Prospect of the Island of Tobago, about forty Leagues distant from Barbadoes ; but far excelling that Island, and indeed any other of the Caribbee-Islands, in the Fertility and Richness of the Soil, and in the Commodiousness of its Bays and Harbors : and it is no paradox to affirm. That though it lies more south, the Air is as Cool...”
10

“...founded the colony. The settlers, who were at first well received, soon quarrelled with the Caribs; but with the aid .of reinforcements from Martinique, the Indians were exterminated. On the northern coast the Mome des Sauteurs is still shown, where many of the Caribs leapt into the sea in order to escape from their enemies. Du Parquet, now in full possession of the island, did not find it profitable, and so in 1656 he sold it to Count de Cerillac for about ^1,890. The latter appointed as Governor a man “ of brutal manners,” who oppressed the colonists to such an extent that he was tried and condemned to be hanged. By pleading that he was of noble origin he managed, however, to get the sentence altered to one of beheading, but no skilful executioner being available, he was at last shot at the Summit of the hill on the Grand Etang road. De Cerillac sold the island in 1664 to the French West India Company, and on the dissolution of that organisation at the end of the year 1674 it passed to the French...”
11

“...was exchanged among us ; we all 1 knew an attack from that quarter must fail of success, which I would not only prolong our misery, but endanger our lives. I The door was opened; two men appeared with hammers to I take the prisoners out of stocks. Those who were not in con- I finement were ordered to go out. ... He (Fédon) began the I bloody massacre in presence of his wife and daughters, who I remained there, unfeeling spectators of his horrid barbarity. I He gave the word Feu himself to every man as soon as he came I out; and, of fifty-one prisoners, only Parson M’Mahon, Mr. Kerr, I and myself were saved. At Charlotte Town, or Gouyave (population 1,927), on I the leeward coast, about twelve miles to the north of I'St. George’s by road, or a journey of ij hours by motor- I boat or one hour by motor-car (see page 158), a flourishing I system of peasant proprietorship can be seen in operation. I Attempts have been made in the other islands to settle I the people on the land, but nowhere have...”
12

“...shore of an open bay. Eight miles farther is Sauteors (pron. Soteers ; population 960), reached by motor-boat in three or four hours or in two hours by motor-car. It is of interest as being the scene of the massacre of Carib Indians, of whom a number, pursued by the French under Le Compte, rushed up a narrow and difficult path known to them alone, and threw themselves over the edge of a cliff (Le Mome des Sauteurs, or The Leapers’ Hill) overlooking the bay, in 1650. The French, who only lost one man, then set fire to the cottages and rooted up the provisions of the Caribs, and, having destroyed or taken away everything' I belonging to them, returned, as Du Tertre naïvely | describes it, “bien joyeux.” From Sauteurs Lakes [i Antoine and Levera, which occupy the craters of extinct |j volcanoes, can be visited. Those interested in antiquities can inspect stones I sculptured by the Caribs at Mount Rich in St. Patrick’s | Parish, and near the town of Victoria. Grenville, or La Baye (population...”
13

“...from the Government Rest House on Bellevue North (980 feet) comprising St. Vincent on the north and Grenada on the south, 68 miles apart with the exquisite archipelago of the Grenadines lying in between. ST. LUCIA " Statio hand malefida carinis." The Colony’s Motto. St. Lucia, which lies in latitude 130 50' N. and longitude 6o° 58' W., about 20 miles to the south of Martinique and 30 miles to the north-east of St. Vincent, has a total area of 233 square miles, being rather larger than the Isle of Man. Its greatest length is 28 miles, its greatest breadth 14 miles, and its population 51,505. St. Lucia is volcanic, and consequently very mountainous. The scenery throughout the island is truly magnificent. The main range of mountains, of an average height of I 500 feet, runs north and south nearly the whole length of the island, buttressed by numerous ridges branching off from it, gradually sloping down to the sea on either side, and leaving narrow fertile valleys between them. The flattest parts...”
14

“...Peaks, which form prominent landmarks on the leeward coast. Some writers have stated that the Gros Piton resembles the main peak of the Canigou, near Arles in the Pyrenees; but unlike the St. Lucia peaks, that mountain is quite destitute of verdure and rises to a far greater height. The Gros Piton is certainly not unlike the Pic du Midi. It is said to be 2,619 feet high, the Petit Piton 2,461 feet. The Gros Piton is comparatively easy to ascend, but until 1878, the smaller Piton was unconquered by man. In that year, however, a M. Lompré succeeded in gaining its summit, and it was ascended in 1885 by Mr. Charles de Brettes, who two years later conducted the then Chief Justice, Dr. John W. Carrington, and a party to the summit. The start was made from the western extremity, which was reached by clambering over the rocks. The party began the ascent at 6.22 a.m. and at 7.15 reached the Grande Ravine, a deep gorge running into the mountain. Thence the line of march lay more along the side of the...”
15

“...Baijer, Ashton Warner, Major- General George W. Ramsay, and Patrick Kirvan, the perpetrator of many amusing “ bulls,” whose gravestone was inscribed " By his discretion this tomb was erected. The churchyard is entered by iron gates, those at the south being flanked by pillars on which are metal figures representing St. John the Baptist and his namesake the Evangelist. They were intended for Dominica, but the Is French vessel in which they were being conveyed to that island was captured by a British man-of-war, which brought them to Antigua, where they have since re- mained. They are now known to the blacks as Adam aiThe roof of the cathedral is partly maintained at the expense of the Government, who use it to collect rain- water, which is stored in a large cistern. The cathedral possesses some interesting and valuable plate, notable...”
16

“...the old days by a chain boom. It is divided from Falmouth Harbour, which is next to it, by a narrow isthmus, and with very little trouble the two might be made one magnificent harbour, which could easily be defended by forts on the high hilla surrounding it. On the summit of Monks Hill, which overlooks Falmouth, stand the remains of Great George Fort, which covered ten acres and mounted, according to Luffman, “ forty-eight pounders, said to be the identical gnus taken out of the Fourdriaunt * man- of-war, taken some years since in these seas.” It was erected as a place of refuge for women and children in Cagp of siege. The works were begun in 1689 and com- pleted in 1705. The military cemetery, which like others ui the West Indies is badly cared for, is of interest. The iort is now used as a signal station. Ships now very rarely visit English Harbour ; and the dockyard, with its group of yellow, two-storied barracks and stores with red roofs, though trim and tidy, is deserted. For many...”
17

“...at Sandy Point, but the defenders plied their heavy cannon and mortars with such effect that the town was soon destroyed. Batteries were multiplied on batteries all round the hill; by day and night they cannonaded and bombarded the garrison, and the fire of twenty-three pieces of heavy cannon and twenty-four large mortars was concentrated on a spot of ground not exceeding 200 yards in diameter. Small wonder that the garrison, who displayed the greatest fortitude and patience, and lost only one man through desertion, were compelled to capitulate, which they did on February 13th. They were accorded honours of war in the fullest sense, and every condition proposed, whether in favour of the garrison or the island of St. Kitts, was agreed to. The men of the 1st Battalion of the Royal Scots and the flank companies of the 15th Regiment now the East Riding, Yorkshire Regiment, were sent to England pending their exchange, and the Marquis de Bouillé with his wonted magnanimity absolved by a particular...”
18

“...NEVIS 227 With losse of Noble bloud the Illustrious Name, Of A Commander Create in Acts of Fame. Trayn'd from his youth in’Armes, his Courage bold Attempted braue Exploites, and Vncontrold By fortunes fiercest frownes, hee still gaue forth Large Narratiues of Military worth. Written with his sword’s poynt but what is man midst of his glory and who can this Life A moment since that bee by Sea and Land so longe kept free mortal strokes at length did yeeld ace) to conquering Death the field. FINE CORONAT. ,St. Thomas is the parish church of Old Road. Every visitor to St. Kitts should endeavour to see the sister island of Nevis, Which can be reached by motor- launch. NEVIS Nelson’s Island The island of Nevis (Nievis, or Mevis, as it used to be called in the old days) is separated from St. Kitts by a narrow strait only two miles wide, but from Basseterre, St. Kitts, to Charlestown, the capital of Nevis, the dis- tance is 13 miles. The area of Nevis, which is situated I between latitudes 170...”
19

“...Leprosie, and that one of the same persons now, or lately dwelt at Woolwich neere the River of Thames, by whom the truth may be knowne, if any man desire to be further satisfied therein. As for my own experience, although it was not much, yet the effects that I found it work both in my selfe, and other of my company in two dayes space, doe cause me to conceive the best of it. For at my coming thither, I was grievously vexed with an extreme cough, which I much feared would turne me to great harme, but bathing in the Bath, and drinking ther water, I was speedily cured ; and ever since that time I have found the state of my body (I give God thankes for it) farre exceeding what it was before, in strength and health. Again, in 1672 Richard Blome wrote of the springs as being “ much frequented for the curing of the several distempers of the Body of Man.” The Rev. Mr. Smith, in his “ Natural History of Nevis,” 1745» tells how it cured a negro boy of leprosy. “ Indeed, all distempered People, both...”
20

“...Oldmixon as far back as 1708. The natives, he said, tell all strangers “ a Jtrange Tale of a vajt monjtrous Serpent, that had its Abode in the before-mentioned Bottom (an inaccessible Bottom among the high mountains). They affirm’d, there was in the Head of it a very /parkling Stone, like a Carbuncle of ine/timable Price ; that the Mon/ter commonly veil’d that rich Jewel with a thin moving skin, like that of a Man’s Eyelid, and when it went to drink or/ported it/elf in the deep Bottom, it fully di/cover’d it, and the Rocks all about receiv’d a wonderful Lu/tre from the Fire i/fuing out of that precious Gem.” There is a rude shelter by the side of the lake, where ponies can be tied up while the visitor proceeds afoot to the famous Rosalie View. Here there is one of the most magnificent vistas in the West Indies. From a fore- ground of tall tree-ferns, rubber trees, and a wealth of tropical foliage, stretch eight or nine miles of densely wooded valley and mountain, ending in the dim and blue...”